Vicksburg, Tensas River, + Hot Springs National Park

Teddy and I continued on from Waco + New Orleans toward Hot Springs National Park during our 7 Day Road Trip through the southern United States.

Stop 1: Vicksburg National Military Park

We stopped at Vicksburg National Military Park which has been on my list for a few years since I read the book American Ulysses which documented Ulysses S. Grant and his part in the Civil War.

While it was an 8 or so hour drive from New Orleans to Hot Springs, stopping at Vicksburg was about halfway. We purchased an audio tour through Action Tour Guide and spent about 2-3 hours driving through the park. We did this last year when we visited Gettysburg National Military Park on a camping trip and had a great time learning and exploring.

Stop 2: Tensas River National Wildlife Park

I had never heard of this area but Teddy had so we added it as a stop along the way. The park is in place to preserve bottomland hardwoods remaining in the Mississippi Delta. We were the only visitors there but we prefer it that way. It meant we had the Hollow Cypress Trail out to the view all to ourselves through the changing fall covers. We saw some deer in the field and then hopped in the car for a scenic drive in the area. We got to see a live armadillo walking along the side of the road! I don’t often get to see them alive so this was a treat!

Stop 3: The Waters Hotel

We continued our drive into Arkansas and checked in for the night at the Waters Hotel in downtown Hot Springs. Something unique about Hot Springs National Park is that it’s not the type of National Park you may normally think about where you enter a wilderness area with mountains or forests or bodies of water. This park is actually right in the middle of town and the history is along the main road. We grabbed dinner downstairs at our hotel before calling it a night.

Stop 4: Promenade

The next morning we got up and walked to the promenade only a few blocks from our hotel. The Grand Promenade is a brick walkway that’s about a half mile long. It runs parallel to Bathhouse Row which is right along the main street. The inspiration from the design came from a pedestrian walkway in Havana, Cuba. It has some of those older looking chess tables like you see in other parks across the country.

Stop 5: The Pancake Shop

From the Promenade, we walked to grab breakfast at The Pancake Shop until Bathhouse Row opened. The waitress we had was the ideal waitress. She was attentive, really friendly, but didn’t visit more than needed. We ordered a few different things split them together. I grabbed an omelette and Teddy got pancakes and ham. It was such a simple meal but it was so good. We highly recommend it.

Stop 6: Fordyce Bathouse Tour

After we ate, we visited the Fordyce Bathhouse where we did a self guided tour. This particular bathhouse had been open from 1915-1962. We watched a short video that showed a traditional bath routine and then toured the various levels of the building.

What I found most fascinating was how and why the Hot Springs were so popular. Even though I’ve visited the Roman Baths in Bath, England when I was younger, as well as other thermal hot springs around the United States, it wasn’t until this trip that I really “got it”. I very easily take for granted the access we have to modern medicine and as well as knowledge that we about the benefits of enjoying the outdoors.

In the United States during the 1800 and early 1900s, using thermal springs for health benefits increased in popularity. These health resorts were most frequented by those in elite society as they were the individuals who could afford the travel. In what’s now Hot Springs National Park, you could visit the area not only for the thermal springs, but also to visit medical staff who specialized in various therapies as well as to get outside and enjoy the trails.

In the 1800s, people were used to slow nature walks which didn’t do much to increase someone’s heart rate. In 1914, Max Oertel created trails that helped strengthen the heart, and increase heart rate, called “terrain cure”. In Hot Springs, this “terrain cure” trail system was implemented with color coded trails.

Again, what I take for granted now, was a novel idea at that time. This kind of blew my mind as I read it.

While it was a little odd and sterile feeling walking through the historic bathhouse, it was also really interesting. While I may look at the devices and tools they use now and find them a little odd or creepy, people were investing hope to improve their health.

While Teddy and I initially had planned on visiting one of the two open bath houses, and actually enjoying the hot springs, the one that was more our speed at Quapaw was closed on the day we visited. That left our only option to be the Buckstaff Baths which are more traditional and use some of the original bath tubs and equipment. Clothing for some of these is also optional. As I mentioned, the original tubs and equipment is creepy looking and not our speed, so we passed this time. Though, on an upcoming trip to another part of the US, we are hoping to visit some hot springs and actually get to enjoy them!

Stop 7: Scenic Drive

After our time visiting the bathhouse, we took the scenic road up West Mountain Summit Drive and enjoyed the fall foliage. While we didn’t have time to hike any of the trails, if we had more time in the area we would have loved to do this as well as other scenic drives in the area.

While Hot Springs National Park is likely never going to be your top national park to visit, I absolutely think it’s worth the visit. But you have to go in knowing this is an urban National Park, similar to the St. Louis Arch. It’s more like visiting a historic site versus visiting somewhere like Yellowstone or Glacier. They don’t compare. A weekend would be a great amount of time. This allows you to drive scenic roads, do some hiking, walking the promenade, visit the historic baths on a tour, and have your own chance to visit one of the bathhouses (just make sure to check their schedule!).